For the next few days Il Forno will host the English version of the report my good friend Muccapazza (from Il Gastronomo Riluttante) will be doing from Identità Golose, arguably the most interesting event dedicated to fine cuisine in Italy. For once I'll give up my role as author and translate the material that Muccapazza will write in Italian. I hope those interested in Italian fine dining will enjoy our combined effort. The original post in Italian can be found here.
Between the end of January and the beginning of February, Palazzo Mezzanotte in Milan will host Identità Golose and Dossier Dessert. In contrast to the first edition of the event, this year what will effectively take place is two congresses in one: both aspects underline one moment of the meal, each with its own identity, savory and sweet. The desire is to give way to a meeting of the savory and the sweet world, two realities that have problems understanding each other on the day to day practical basis of restaurant kitchens.
According to Paolo Marchi, the man behind Identità Golose, time has come for these two realities to talk to each other, building a bridge between them and possibly even to the world of pastry shops working outside the restaurant logic and rhythms.
Identità Golose will be a meeting that will offer three days between savory and sweet "identities", livened up first by chef ready to confront themselves, discuss and think together for two days (30th and 31st January), and then, on the same stage, by the pastry chefs, who'll close the event on the 1st of February.
Dossiert Dessert will be the so called cherry on the cake of Identità Golose: Monday 30th of January will be completely dedicated to ice creams, the next day will be dedicated to a special program studied by Valrhona for the occasion, dedicated to the study of a dessert menu, without being exclusively dedicated to chocolate. And the 1st of February? It will be a surprise. Sweet and savory, clearly.
Read on to find out the program of the event...
SUNDAY, JANUARY 29, 2006, The Westin Palace, piazza della Repubblica 20 Milano
19:30 Welcome conference and awards ceremony
MONDAY, JANUARY 30, 2006, The first sweet day (with a savory beginning)
09:30 Carlo Petrini and Terra Madre 2006
09:40 Fulvio Pierangelini Simple thoughts (on an egg and a pig)
10:20 Pascal Barbot Return from a voyage: India, Japan and Taiwan
11:00 Alfredo Russo The hard part in making easy things: Insalata russa
11:40 Massimiliano Alajmo Re-texturing cheese and vegetables
15:00 Ferran Adria' A synthesis of our philosophy in 23 points
15:40 Christoforos Peskias Revisiting traditional recipes, a lesson in collective memory
16:20 Vittorio Fusari Terroir cuisine, the actuality of tradition
17:00 Mathias Dahlgren Thinking - creating - showing - saying: a bad idea is still an idea
17:40 Alfonso Caputo Sea flavour: pasta which is not pasta
19:00 END OF THE FIRST DAY
TUESDAY, JANUARY 31, 2006, the second savory day (with a sweet beginning)
10:10 Moreno Cedroni Cuttlefish, from sweet to savory
10:50 Carlo Cracco Notebook 2006: "Sea"
11:30 Anthony Genovese Lobster salad, almost raw, with pineapple and rice packets
12:10 Wylie Dufresne Recent developments at wd-50
15:00 Andrea Canton Friuli at the table: Spices, to avoid forgetting everyday flavours
15:40 Emanuele Scarello Friuli at the table: the tastes of frico and today's Buzzera
16:20 Attias Tarlao Friuli at the table: Tuna tonnato and the planet sea (il Boreto)
17:00 Tomaz Kavcic Pure...
17:40 Jordi Herrera Techniques of Manairò's cuisine: the flame...
19:00 END OF THE SECOND DAY
WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 01, 2006, The sweet day (with a savory beginning)
09:00 Davide Scabin Decalogue of food design and creative process: Agnolotti for breakfast
09:40 Massimo Bottura Evocative cuisine
10:20 Dani Garcia Cooking with nitrogen: iced semolino of olive oil
11:00 Mauro Uliassi Flavour taste and the intermingling of the senses
11:50 Angelo Corvitto Cold-maceration: the earth
14:30 Jordi Roca Adapting perfume to pastry: Hypnotic poison
15:10 Jordi Butron The logic of the assembly of a restaurant dessert
15:50 Corrado Assenza Breakfast, the lands sea; tricotta and sweet lasagna
16:30 Iginio Massari Bengodi
17:10 Enrico Cerea "Fried food" and "Carnival"
17:50 Loretta Fanella "The red apple"
19:00 END OF THE SECOND EDITION OF IDENTITÀ GOLOSE