I must confess that I never particularly liked the German gastronomic magazines. A huge number of these fall either in the recipe collection or lifestyle groups: neither interest me much. I would have enough recipe to test to keep me busy for the next 15-20 years if I wanted to. The lifestyle magazines IMO aim at those who would want to be there – with the cool cars, perfect designed homes and clothes, drinking incredibly expensive wines – but are not rich and or sophisticated enough to live that life.
The only "real" food magazine to my eyes (at least among those widely available), Feinschmecker, always gave me the impression of being a food for show-offs kind of publication. I do occasionally buy it, but I have never went through a single issue without feeling terribly pissed off with one article or the other. Especially when people like Wolfram Siebeck, one of Germany's finest gourmets pens, go on with their spiel about how German haute cuisine is superior to others, even the French. Having read the same things in Italian magazines for ages, I know all too well what prejudiced and delusional culinary national pride hides behind this chest thumping, and I cannot avoid getting mad about it.
Last week my attention was grabbed by a new addition to the usual suspect on the cooking shelf of my newsagent: the bi-monthly German Gault Millau magazine. Had I missed this in the past five years all the time? No, GM magazine is a new publication. I grabbed one with the secret hope of having finally found what I had searched for. I have long had a greater sympathy for Gault Millau guides than the haughty Michelin ones with their stars falling from the heavens without a word of explanation, so I was favourably inclined to this magazine.