If you take some vacation from work and, instead of spending those days with your family, decide to use them to do a stage in a restaurant kitchen, would you say your food obsession has gone too far? I would probably say yes (but feel free to leave your comments about this below), though saying so I'm only hurting myself... because that is exactly what I did two months ago.
I travelled the about 1000 km I need to get to Italy not to dine at Dal Pescatore or to taste the culatelli at Al Vedel, but to spend a week working split shifts in the kitchen of Locanda della Tamerice in Ostellato, near Ferrara. I had gotten in touch with Tamerice's chef, Igles Corelli, through a chat I organized on the eGullet Society's Italy forum with him as a guest. I wasn't really looking for a stage at the time. Chatting about cuisine with Igles and his fantastic wife Pia I just mentioned my curiosity about seeing how a restaurant kitchen works from the inside. Well just drop by, was the answer. How could I miss a chance like this? Bags packed I made my way to Italy as soon as I could.
Before starting my stage I thought a lot about the books and articles I read on restaurant kitchens (especially Michael Ruhlman's The Making of a Chef) and on how my experience would compare. Upon reflection I could quickly see how it would be silly to do so. Each kitchen has its own story, character and quirks. There might be a common trait that keeps them all together, but until I collect enough experience I'd rather avoid being so presumptuous as to think I've understood how kitchens and cooks generally are.
Locanda della Tamerice's kitchen is a special place. There are excellent ingredients available, a concentrated but warm atmosphere and above all a great dedication to the job at handall of which made the time I spent there an eye opening experience and made me regret having only one week time. On the other hand more than a week and I would have found a very unhappy wife on my return home.
The leadership and experience of Igles Corelli, who is one of the chefs who has left a mark on Italian cuisine in the last twenty years, are there setting an example for everyone else. No wonder that the crew is made up of young, passionate and very dedicated people. There is a special care and effort in motivating the younger chefs and culinary students spending some time here to learn, something which I believe is not common in other kitchens (at least judging from what I've been told by others), and which meant that even I as the amateur of the bunch managed to learn a few things and hopefully give something back too, if only in dedication. There is a certain degree of tollerance for mistakes, though not on the line clearly, but if someone really strays from the beaten track there will always be sous chef Gianni Gnessi, a very special guy, to prod their buttocks.
Sure the work is hard. When you work for 14 hours 5 days a week on split shifts you are completely knackered by the end of the week. But would I want to go back? You bet. No office or research job I had till now has ever managed to make me feel so involved into something. The fun, tension, thrill and satisfaction are worth every minute of the job. My only regret? I wish I had found out before.
Locanda Della Tamerice
Via Argine Mezzano, 2
44020 Ostellato (FE)
Phone: 0533 681811 - 0533 680795
I collected the best pictures of my week at Locanda della Tamerice here, and I con only hope they manage to give at least a feeling of what the atmosphere is like.
If you're interested in knowing more about the restaurant's cuisine you might take a look at my comments over on the eGullet forums. It is not a review, since I'm just too involved, but I think I managed to keep my critical honesty when it comes to the main points.
Hello!
Sounds like a great experience! If only I had enough time to do something similar ...
But where in Italy is that Locanda della Tamerice? Maybe I can drop by on my next trip.
Thanks!
Imre
Posted by: Imre | May 17, 2005 at 12:01 PM
Imre, thanks for pointing my missing the essential "where is it" info, I'll forget my own head next! Just added the details to the post.
Posted by: Alberto | May 17, 2005 at 12:14 PM
This is really great! Especially how you described the working atmosphere, all kitchens should be like that! So, are you planning to go back again sometime soon?
Posted by: Amy | May 17, 2005 at 09:37 PM
Amy, just wonderingbecause of your comment on kitchens: are you a cooking professional or student? I'd love to go back and spend more time there, but it's not easy. I have a "regular" job I need to get back to, though the desire to quit it and work in the kitchen has definitely gotten stronger since my time in Ostellato.
Posted by: Alberto | May 18, 2005 at 10:50 AM
I think your xml is not working properly....
Posted by: cat | May 18, 2005 at 03:05 PM
Could you be more explicit? I see no problem whatsoever.
Posted by: Alberto | May 18, 2005 at 03:14 PM
Clap, Clap, Mr. Alberto.
Beautiful report and photo.
La Tamerice si great with Igles Corelli and Pia.
Posted by: muccapazza28 | May 18, 2005 at 03:32 PM
Hi! I know exactly what you mean when you talk about the thrill of the job,etc. even with those kind of hours. I worked in the same environment and wanted to do it for the rest of my life - I loved it! However, I would never see my family or my partner, so unfortunately, I chose otherwise. I hugely miss it though.
Thanks for sharing your experience, it brought back my memories.
Posted by: Dreska | May 18, 2005 at 09:42 PM
Dreska, I should thank you for sharing your experience. I very well know what you mean, and it's nice to see others feel the same. But as Mucca said, I cannot avoid thinking the experience was so nice because of the people there, foremost Igles Corelli and his companion Pia, who are simply exceptional. Would it have felt the same elsewhere? I'll just have to try out I guess ;-)!
Posted by: Alberto | May 18, 2005 at 09:49 PM
Hmm! You made me thinking there. About the people. We had a fantastic team, fun and the hard work. We worked well together, we didn't mind staying late, it seemed like we didn't want to leave for the night! I think you are right. To have an excellent leader(chef) is important as well as the rest of the team. They need to share the same enthusiasm, otherwise, they won't last in this tough environment.(my humble opinion)
Posted by: Dreska | May 22, 2005 at 01:07 AM
Hi Alberto, replying your question: No, I don't have experience working in a restaurant kitchen (next year I'm planning to), but everyone knows how tough it is, I've watched Iron Chef hehe... so I figure it must be nice when the chef is like how you described :)
Posted by: Amy | May 24, 2005 at 02:03 PM
Oh yes, the famous Iron Chef :-)!
Posted by: Alberto | May 24, 2005 at 02:49 PM
Ciao,
I sow in Tamerice web site the chance to do this kind of "stage",if I was indecisive now I am really SURE I will do it even if it is quite expensive
thank you very much
lucia
Posted by: Lucia | August 09, 2005 at 02:36 PM
Lucia, I would check with the people at Locanda della Tamerice regarding the stage price. Conditions are quite different depending on what you're looking for. If you want a short "stage" (more of a cooking course actually) I think the prices are those you have seen. If you are a cook and are looking for a longer stage things might be quite different.
Posted by: Alberto | August 09, 2005 at 04:57 PM