As all my fellow food bloggers, I have a passion for cookbooks: as hard as I try to promise myself that THIS book is the last one (... at least for a few months) I inevitably end up with a new addition to my collection sooner than I can say mise en place. You can imagine that when Cathy of A Blithe Palate asked me if I was interested in Getting a copy of Mitchell Davis' new cookbook, Kitchen Sense, to test I simply could not resist.
Now, I must admit that I am most definitely not a huge fan of plain cookbooks. I do use them, to great extent sometimes, but they're not exactly what I would read from cover to cover. Like wise, I must admit I had little idea of who Mitchell Davis is, of his role in the James Beard Foundation and of his previous books, The Mensch Chef and Cook Something.
And still, once the book arrived, I found myself reading through it (almost) from cover to cover captured by the clear and concise recipe descriptions, the short introductions to each and the very welcome tips for variations and leftovers. I cannot even complain too much about the Italian recipes, one of my favourite hobbies. Apart one or two details and a semantic disagreement, these keep the original spirit if not always the original ingredients. Nonetheless, this makes the recipe more feasible for the US public the book is aimed at.
If I really had to look for something to criticise I would mention the fact that the book's difficulty slope might be a bit too steep for real cooking beginners. Otherwise there is plenty for anyone else, from cooks wanting to improve their skills and recipe collection to experts who are looking for new versions of old time favourites.
Kitchen Sense has definitely an American metropolitan sense to itself, with its mix of "ethnic" recipes and American classics. As a European I was actually more interested in the latter, especially those dishes hailing from the cuisine of the South. I had been reading about some of these for years now, so it was time to have a go myself. After a tempting recipe seeking session, I decided for Buttermilk Biscuits with Sausage Gravy. If I had to pick a classic, this seemed like the perfect choice.
Would the easy to follow recipes on paper translate into easy to prepare ones? One recipe is maybe not enough to be 100% sure, but the verdict is definitely a positive one. The biscuits and gravy recipes turned out just fine, and only needed a little tweaking in the buttermilk amount (which might have to do with the flour here, since it is not the first time I notice this with American recipes). Served with a little mixed greens, the bisciuts got enthusiastic comments between bites. I don't know how a real Southerner would have judged them, apart probably mentioning that my gravy is too thick (my fault there), but to a first timer like me Davis' recipe and tips were all I needed. Isn't that exactly what such a cookbook should be about?
Quite a genuine Critical Appreciation of the Book Kitchen Sense.
Though I found the book's instructional feature incomplete without pictures, yet I found that Mitchell Davis has tailored the book to cater to the needs of an amateur American gourmet.
You had been apt to point out that this cookbook is bound to improve the culinary skills of a cook.
{However I do not agree that a novice cannot find his rescure here. Every instruction is is accompanied with detailed illustrations to guide a novice at every step.
Posted by: Esther | July 12, 2006 at 04:44 PM
Esther, I find pictures are a nice added bonus at times, but often they become the whole point of cooking books while the recipes suffer. In that regard, I'd rather have a book with no pictures but with tried and tested instructions than one that has nice looks.
You are probably right about the novice cooks, there are indeed a number of recipes that anyone could follow. Yet I think there are other books which might be better suited for them. Probably I am influenced by some of the terribly clumsy cooking "freshmen" I know, who manage to screw up the simple act of heating a pasta sauce :-).
Posted by: Alberto | July 13, 2006 at 10:42 AM
Alberto, thank you so much for joining us. I showed your post to a friend who's a native Southerner -- and she said, "That looks exactly like food my mama used to make for us!" :-)
Posted by: cath | July 14, 2006 at 03:18 AM
I think your gravy would look and taste just about right!
Posted by: Tanna | July 15, 2006 at 10:34 AM
I find it refreshing when you get a cookbook that is actually a great read as well. Im all for cookbooks with pretty pictures but having that little extra is nice. This cookbook sounds like a good one.
Posted by: jenjen | July 18, 2006 at 11:28 AM
I agree with this. I use cookbooks like encycloepedias. In other words, only when I'm in a bind do I reach for the experts opinion. Well, I can't say that is true, either, because many times I'm constantly grabbing for them. Oh gosh, what am I saying. Alright, I'm perfectly hooked. I need cookbook to tell me how to get out of bed in the morning. I think we all need this sometimes...
Posted by: Walker Thompson | July 19, 2006 at 12:25 AM
Cath and Tanna, thanks for the positive feedback on my go at gravy and biscuits!
Walker, what to say... yo semm to be hooked indeed ;-).
Posted by: Alberto | July 19, 2006 at 09:14 AM
Hey-I'm a southerner and I think your gravy looks perfect. I have a compulsive urge to mention that the shape of your biscuits aren't typical of the American southeast. (Our biscuits are invariably circular-sometimes a cookie cutter/biscuit cutter but also a jar or a glass). It took me a while to register that you hadn't put sausage gravy onto a baguette. I feel a hearty breakfast coming for my family this weekend!
Posted by: Sucar | July 19, 2006 at 06:41 PM
Hi Alberto
What a great post. I too lingered over the biscuits and gravy recipe...I'll probably try them a bit later on:)
j
Posted by: jasmine | July 22, 2006 at 03:04 AM
Sucar, thanks for the shape tip. Mitchell Davies does indeed mention that round is the traditional way to go. I could not find my round cutters so I used a less classic wedge shape.
I did find the round cutters afterwards: my son was using them to cut out plasticine cookies :-).
Posted by: Alberto | July 23, 2006 at 03:35 PM
It IS great to find a book where the recipes are as good as the pictures. This particular recipe sounds quite mouthwateringly good.
About the flour- thats so true. Is it because many American recipes specify Self raising flour or All Purpose flour? Never quite figured it out.
Only one type of White Flour is available here and we all add baking powder according to our own tastes.
Posted by: Jyotsna aka deccanheffalump | August 06, 2006 at 02:21 PM
I'm intrigued by this one! Certainly the recipes here seem to veer on the side of innovativity without creating modern culinary disasters.
In light of culinary disaster trends, see things like "vindaloo icecream". Yuk!
Posted by: Scott | August 31, 2006 at 02:19 AM
i'm very much abstracted by this and thre is some more, I found that amazing in south Asia (India).
Posted by: covai | September 17, 2006 at 02:25 AM